https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Bluetooth_headset
Sections 3.3 or 3.4
I did 3.4 to disable the headset profiles cause generally it’s ass
Mainly here to keep up with the news on Linux.
https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Bluetooth_headset
Sections 3.3 or 3.4
I did 3.4 to disable the headset profiles cause generally it’s ass
I have had this happen to me when my monitor turns off before the night shift starts and when I come back let’s say an hour later and the night shift is not on.
Prob has something to do with the monitor being off at the switching time
A tip I saw some time ago is to do:
rm folder -rf
Additionally you could move the git folder to the trash folder. I think it’s usually located at $HOME/.local/share/trash/files/
Then you can delete it from the trash once you’re certain you got the right folder
It mentions it fixed bluetooth issues with certain devices, I wonder if it’s related to what I’m experiencing on regular fedora KDE (and EndeavorOS too) with a kernel version 6.9.3, CachyOS kernel on fedora, Liqourix on EndeavorOS, where my game controller will not connect to Bluetooth unless I restart the bluetooth service or pair the controller again.
With Fedora’s default kernel which is currently 6.8.11 I don’t have this issue. Honeslty I don’t know what’s up, and from a quick search I couldn’t find people with the same issue. I’ll search again later just in case
One pet peeve of mine is how in Windows 10 switching between virtual desktops was flawless, and somehow in Windows 11 they fucked it up. At first it had no animation when switching, the taskbar kind of glitches. Now it has an animation but it’s kind of delayed and the taskbar still kind of glitches, it seems to reload or something. Kinda crazy honestly
mfers raised the yearly price from 80 USD to 100 this year, and then they sent me an email that next year it’ll be 120! a 50% increase in two years, insane.
Getting a second drive just for windows I think is a good approach. If you were to do so, it’s important that you remove all other drives while installing windows, otherwise the Windows installer will put its boot files into whatever existing EFI partition it finds.
Then using something like https://github.com/Raphire/Win11Debloat you should be good to go with a relatively clean setup.
To have a local account, I use Rufus to setup the usb installer in a way that it automatically creates the local account, and it can also disable the secure boot and tpm requirements from the installer if you want. Though I think rufus is a windows program only. I know there’s the “OOBE” approach for the local account, but I haven’t done that before. That could be an option too